Page 87 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

• The weave is arranged in groups of equal or unequal
sizes. Threads working in plain weave alternate with
threads floating on the face or back of the fabric.
The ends from each individual group are whenever
possible drawn into same dent; this bunches the
floating ends together and causes a slight gap or
opening in the fabric giving an appearance similar to
a gauze or leno weave, hence the name ‘mock leno’.
• Even number repeat size is normally used to produce
this weave.

• This weave can also be divided diagonally into two
equal parts.
• The smallest repeat size of this weave is 6X6.
(Fig 14)
• Simple construction.
2 Brighton honeycomb weave (Fig 16)

Honey comb waves: The honey comb weaves derive
their name from their partial resemblance to the
hexagonal honey comb cells of wax in which bees store
their honey. These weaves form ridges and hollows which
give a cell like appearance to the textures. Both warp
and weft threads float somewhat on both sides, which
coupled with the rough structure, renders this class of
fabric readily absorbent of moisture. The weaves are of
two classes, namely,
1 Ordinary honey comb, Brighton honeycomb is a complex structure. The weave

2 Brighton honey comb. is not as popular as the ordinary honeycomb, it is used
in similar qualities for more decorative end uses such
1 Ordinary honeycomb weave (Fig 15)
as quilts and brocades and, in some cases, hand towels
An ordinary honeycomb weave creates a fabric with a and glass cloths. It is also suitable for crockery towels.
cell-like appearance due to the way the warp and weft The main features of Brighton honeycomb are as follows
threads are arranged. It’s characterized by raised and
sunk areas forming a honeycomb pattern, with each “cell” • More honeycomb cells of varying size are produced
being distinct. This weave is known for its good moisture in this weave.
absorption and can be made reversible • The fabric surface is also rough as ordinary
The main features of ordinary honeycomb are as follows:- honeycomb.
• Surface of produced fabric is rough. • When making the weave, the number of threads per
• Similar appearance or effect formed in both sides of repeat should always be a multiple of (i.e. 12 ends X
the fabric. 12 picks), whilst the longest float should always be
one less than half the number of threads in the repeat
• In repeat size, ends and picks are equal or unequal. (i.e. 12/2 – 1 = 5).
• Repeat size is multiple of two. • Both sides of the fabric look the same like as ordinary
• Smallest repeat size is 6 X 4. honeycomb.
• One cell in each repeat. • Straight drafting system is used to produce this
• V – draft or pointed draft is found. Brighton honeycomb weave.

Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.43-48 77